Ultimate bar-stool dining around a bustling open-kitchen of perfectionist chefs. If you can afford it, order every single degustation at about €20 a pop - unless that's too complex on the tongue. Don't miss the hot duck foie gras with citrus or the langoustine ravioli with truffles. Guarantee yourself a 'soufflé Chartreuse' with pistachio ice cream splodged into its heart. Let them choose accompanying wine by the glass. No reservations, so the whole world has a chance of eating here.